After Cordoba we headed towards the coastal Malaga but our journey was interrupted again with a few exciting detours. One of the most memorable of these was Setenil de las Bodegas where we had breakfast in a cozy little café directly in the shadow of the huge rocks. After breakfast we walked around the special streets of the small town where the houses were not built next to the rocks but directly under or inside the huge stone blocks, which provided a completely improbable and impressive sight.
The main speciality of Setenil de las Bodegas lies in its unique architectural solutions, as the residents of the town have been taking advantage of the natural features of the gorge carved by the Trejo River for centuries. The roof structure of the houses in many places is made of natural basalt rock itself, which is not only spectacular but also provides excellent thermal insulation in the hot Andalusian summers. This type of construction is called “abrigo bajo rocas” or shelter under the rocks, which turns the streets of the city into cave-like corridors where nature and human creation are completely intertwined.
The history of the city dates back to Roman times, but according to research, the caves in the area were inhabited even in prehistoric times. The name of the town comes from the Latin phrase “septem nihil” or “seven times nothing”, which refers to the seven unsuccessful sieges that Christian armies launched in order to capture the castle during the Moorish rule. Finally, in 1484, during the eighth siege, the city was only captured, which was one of the last important victories before the fall of the Emirate of Granada during the Reconquista.
The second half of the name, “de las Bodegas”, refers to the city’s former significant wine production and the cool wine cellars carved into the rocks, which were the economic basis of the area for centuries. Although the phylloxera epidemic destroyed most of the vineyards at the end of the 19th century, the town’s name has preserved the memory of winemaking. The village, which used to live mainly on agriculture, has now become one of the most popular stops on the White Villages route, where its unique microclimate and dramatic streetscape attract visitors.
After exploring the narrow streets such as Calle de las Cuevas del Sol and Calle de las Cuevas de la Sombra, it is worth taking a look at the remains of the Moorish castle on the hilltop. The town’s history is also closely linked to its religious tradition, as there are several old chapels and churches nestled between the rocks, of which the Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación Church stands out. Setenil is still a vibrant and thriving community today, where residents proudly maintain their unique homes, defying time and the huge, heavy stone blocks towering above them.
