Of all the countries in the world, Albania was perhaps the closest to the path chosen by North Korea, as it tried to follow the path of isolation and self-sufficiency, similar to the communist regime. The paranoia of the former leaders also worked in a similar way, and they spent unrealistic amounts of money on protection from a perceived or real enemies, while the standard of living of the population remained far below the average of the surrounding Balkan countries. Fortunately, Tirana quickly recovered after the change of regime, and now the characteristic buildings left by the former world in the city are only shown as a special feature, while the exceptionally beautiful works of modern architecture are increasingly taking over the role in defining the cityscape. It is a good experience to walk around the city and visit special places, while we have the opportunity to try the best dishes of Balkan cuisine, because in many places even charcoal-grilled dishes – which are otherwise rare in urban environments – are available.
Tirana has a unique history: from a sleepy Ottoman market town to a modern capital in the 20th century, and then from the closed world of the communist dictatorship to a vibrant, colorful European metropolis. Although the area was inhabited since ancient times – as evidenced by Roman mosaics and Byzantine walls – the foundations of the modern city were only laid in the 17th century.
The city was officially founded in 1614, when a local landowner, Sulejman Pasha Bargjini, built a mosque, bakery and Turkish bath on the site. According to legend, he named the city Tirana in honor of Tehran, Persia, in memory of a victorious battle there. In the following centuries, Tirana became an important trading hub between the Adriatic Sea and the Balkan interior, but at that time it was still far behind the more significant Albanian cities of the time, such as Shkodra or Berat.
The turning point came in 1920, when the Congress of Lushnja elected Tirana as the provisional capital of Albania, primarily due to its central location. In the 1920s and 30s, under the reign of King Zog I, the city began to be transformed in a European style. Italian architects were invited to design the present-day heart of the city, Skanderbeg Square and the avenue leading from it (Dëshmorët e Kombit), in a monumental neoclassical architectural style. It was then that the ministries and the National Bank building, which can still be seen today, were built.
After World War II, during the communist regime, Tirana underwent a drastic change. During the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha, some of the religious buildings were demolished and replaced with socialist realist-style public buildings and huge panel blocks. During this period, the Pyramid (originally Hoxha’s museum) and the National History Museum with its famous mosaics were built. A vast network of bunkers was created under the city center for the leadership, which is now a museum (Bunk’Art).
Tirana began to emerge from the chaos of the post-regime change in the early 2000s, when the future prime minister, Edi Rama, launched the “colorful city” project as mayor. The gray, crumbling communist blocks were repainted in bright colors and patterns, trees were planted, and parks were created, which have now become one of the city’s trademarks.
Today, Tirana is the vibrant center of Albania, where ultramodern glass palaces and skyscrapers are being built in the immediate vicinity of the renovated Ottoman-era Et’hem Bey Mosque. The city is famous for its vibrant café culture and the Blloku district, once the gated residence of party leaders and now home to the city’s most fashionable restaurants and bars.
