We spent more time in Lyon, as my wife was attending a workshop at one of their partner companies, so I had plenty of time to explore this gastronomic citadel. While she was working, we toured the city and even enrolled in a cooking class where we learned all the ins and outs of making the famous Lyonnais pink praline cake (Tarte aux Pralines Roses). Of course, we also went up the hill to see the Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica; the monumental church and the panoramic view of the entire city from there simply amazed us.
The highlight of one of our evenings was the famous Daniel & Denise restaurant. The restaurant is run by the legendary chef Joseph Viola, who is the proud owner of the title of “Best Craftsman of France” (Meilleur Ouvrier de France). When we arrived, the chef was sitting on a small stool in front of the restaurant and greeted each guest personally with incredible directness. It was fantastic to see such a world-renowned authority remain so friendly and direct. And the prices – for a Michelin-starred place – were quite surprising, as the dinner cost no more than any average Lyon bistro, but the flavors and presentation far exceeded our expectations.
Lyon’s history dates back over two thousand years and began during the Roman Empire. Founded in 43 BC as Lugdunum on the Fourvière hill, it soon became the capital of Gaul. Its strategic location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers allowed it to become one of the most important political, economic and religious centers of the empire, where even Roman emperors (such as Claudius) were born.
During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, Lyon developed into a European hub for trade and banking. The large fairs that were permitted in the 15th century attracted merchants from all over Europe, especially from Italy. This is when the old town, Vieux Lyon, took shape, still visible today, with its characteristic courtyards and the famous traboules – these secret passages running under the houses, originally used by silk merchants for the fast and dry transport of goods.
From the 16th century onwards, Lyon became the world centre of silk production. King Francis I granted the city a monopoly on the import of raw silk, which brought enormous prosperity. The silk weavers, the canutes, later settled in the Croix-Rousse district, where their high-ceilinged apartments could accommodate their giant looms. This industry determined not only the city’s economy but also its social structure, and the canute revolts were the forerunners of the modern labour movement.
In the 19th century, the city became a cradle of innovation. Cinema was born here, thanks to the Lumière brothers, who shot the first film in Lyon in 1895. The city’s modern gastronomic reputation also developed during this period. The simple but perfectly prepared dishes of the “Mothers of Lyon” (les Mères lyonnaises) laid the foundation for the cuisine that was later brought to world level by Paul Bocuse and which has led to Lyon being called the gastronomic capital of the world.
During World War II, Lyon was the centre of the French Resistance, as its labyrinthine traboules provided perfect hiding places and escape routes from the Nazi occupiers. After the war, the city developed into a modern metropolis, but managed to preserve its historic core. In 1998, UNESCO declared the historic districts a World Heritage Site. Today, Lyon is a harmonious blend of culture, high technology and joie de vivre.
