We set off on an exciting two-day trip, with the first stop being the charming Novi Sad, but our real destination was the capital of Serbia, Belgrade. This city immediately captivated us with its energy and lively city center. We walked for hours in the hustle and bustle, then visited the famous Kalemegdan fortress, where history came to life as we walked between the huge walls. And in the evenings, we immersed ourselves in the best of Balkan cuisine: the taste of grilled meats, fresh ajvar and pies served in local restaurants provided exactly the authentic experience we were looking for.
Belgrade is an endlessly interesting city, with every stone telling a story. Belgrade is one of the most besieged cities in history, which is no coincidence: the strategic importance of the hill at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers was invaluable. The Celts and Romans had already built a fortress here under the name Singidunum, but the city gained its true medieval significance as the “White Castle” (Nándorfehérvár). As the southern gate of the Kingdom of Hungary, for centuries this fortress was the last serious line of defense that could stop the conquering armies striving towards the interior of Europe.
The most glorious moment in the city’s history came in 1456, when Sultan Mehmed II, the conqueror of Constantinople, arrived at the castle with a huge army. The defense was led by the Turk-beater John Hunyadi, who was accompanied by the fiery preacher John of Capistrano and his small but determined army. In the decisive battle on July 22, the Hungarian and Christian armies inflicted a crushing defeat on the superior Ottoman force, stopping Turkish expansion towards Europe for more than half a century.
There are few historical events that have become a part of our everyday lives to this day, but the victory of Nándorfehérvár is one of them. Pope Callixtus III ordered the midday bell to ring, calling for prayer, even before the battle, so that the Christian world would help the defenders. The bell toll became a symbol of triumph and gratitude upon the news of the victory. To this day, when the bells ring at noon in church towers, we remember the heroic stand of János Hunyadi and his family and the victory of Nándorfehérvár worldwide.
After the victory, the city remained in Hungarian hands for decades, but finally fell in 1521 and came under long Ottoman rule. Belgrade then transformed into an oriental-style city: mosques and bazaars dotted the landscape. However, at the beginning of the 19th century, it became the center of the Serbian uprisings and gradually freed itself from Turkish rule. It officially became the capital of Serbia in 1841, and modern urban development began, replacing Eastern features with Western, neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings.
The storms of the 20th century – the world wars and subsequent political changes – left deep marks on the fabric of the city. Belgrade was the center of Yugoslavia, and then the engine of reconstruction after the change of regime. Today, the Kalemegdan fortress is no longer about wars, but about relaxation: during a walk in the vast park, Roman walls, Turkish gates and Hungarian monuments coexist peacefully. Today, the city is a vibrant, modern metropolis, where the weight of history and the love of the present create a special blend.
