We spent the second day of our trip to Naples in one of the most shocking places in history, Pompeii. There are few ruined cities in the world that make you understand with such elemental force, where flesh-and-blood people once lived their everyday lives. As we walked the cobblestone streets, the past almost came to life. We thought we could see women cooking in the former kitchens, children running around in the inner gardens, and vendors shouting in the forum. It was poignant to realize that the people who lived two thousand years before us woke up every morning filled with exactly the same dreams, desires, and fears as we do – until that fateful day.
One of the first stops on our journey through the city was the huge amphitheater. I had a strange, eerie feeling when I stood in the arena, as I was haunted not only by the memory of the gladiators, but also by one of the most iconic moments in modern music. This is where Pink Floyd filmed their legendary concert film Live at Pompeii in October 1971. The band played without an audience, among the silent ruins, and I have listened to that music many times since then, but it was only standing there that I truly understood the mystical atmosphere that the film conveys.
Pompeii was founded in the 6th century BC by the Oscans, then later came under Greek and Etruscan influence, until it became an ally of the Romans and then a full-fledged city. Its strategic location at the mouth of the Sarno River and the fertile volcanic soil quickly made it a thriving commercial center. Wealthy patricians built luxurious villas here, and the city boasted its own theater, baths, and a developed sewer system.
The city’s residents were accustomed to earthquakes and did not know that Vesuvius, towering behind them, was actually a dangerous volcano. In the 1st century AD, In 62 AD, a massive earthquake caused severe damage to the city, but the residents believed in the future and set about rebuilding with great vigor. Many buildings still had fresh plaster when the day of judgment arrived.
In August 79 AD, Vesuvius erupted with elemental force. The city was buried not by lava, but by ash and pumice falling several meters thick, and then a pyroclastic flow – a mixture of hot gases and ash – that destroyed everything. The ash sealed the city airtight, preserving the buildings, household items and the imprints of the bodies of the tragic victims.
Pompeii lay forgotten underground for almost 1,700 years, until it was accidentally discovered in the mid-18th century. Excavations have been ongoing ever since, and the city is now the most important archaeological site in the world. Not only were ruins found here, but a snapshot of the golden age of the Roman Empire that helps us understand who we once were.
After leaving the ruins, we also took a walk through the modern city of Pompeii. To breathe a little and process what we had seen, we stopped at a local pastry shop. The southern Italian sweets were fabulously creamy and sweet, and the coffee we drank with the cake was just the right amount of strength for the journey back. We returned to Naples late in the afternoon, full of experiences and thoughts.
