Our trip to Gozo also included a visit to the heart of the island, Victoria (locally known as Rabat). This city is the vibrant centre of Gozo, where history is reflected on every street corner.
Victoria’s history dates back to the Bronze Age, when the strategically important hilltop was first fortified. It was a thriving settlement in Roman times under the name Gaulos, but it gained its current character in the Middle Ages and during the Knights’ Order. For centuries it was simply called Rabat (which means suburb in Arabic), but in 1887, on the occasion of the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria of Great Britain, at the request of the local community, it officially adopted the name Victoria. However, locals still often refer to it as Rabat, preserving the duality of the name.
The city’s most impressive sight is the Citadel, which sits almost like a crown on the hilltop. This fortification was a refuge for the inhabitants of Gozo during centuries of pirate attacks. Within the walls of the Citadel is the Baroque-style Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary, whose special feature is its inner dome: or rather, its lack thereof. Due to financial constraints, they were unable to build a real dome, so they used a brilliant trompe-l’oeil painting to create the illusion that a real dome was over the church.
The center of the old town, located at the foot of the Citadel, is It-Tokk Square (officially Independence Square), where the bustling market life takes place. Here you can find the circular Baroque Church of St. James and the ornate administrative buildings. Not far from here stands the Basilica of St. George, also known as the “Golden Church” because of its sumptuous interior covered in marble and gilding. The small squares and winding streets around the basilica give Victoria its true, authentic Mediterranean atmosphere, where locals sit in front of their houses to discuss the events of the day.
Among Victoria’s famous natives is Sir Adrian Dingli (1817–1900), one of the most influential lawyers of the British colonial era and Chief Justice of Malta. He played a significant role in shaping the island’s modern legal system. Also born in the city was Anton Buttigieg (1912–1983), who was not only the second President of the Republic of Malta, but also a renowned poet; his love of the Gozitan landscape and its people often appeared in his works. Their legacy remains an important part of the Gozitan identity today.
Modern Victoria is now not only about history, but also about culture. Surprisingly, this small town is also home to two opera houses – the Astra and the Aurora – which have been in friendly rivalry with each other for decades, bringing world-class performances to the island. During our walk, we also felt this special duality: Victoria is both a quiet, ancient fortress city and a vibrant cultural center, where the values of the past and the energies of the present coexist perfectly.
