We had been longing for this small island country, where every stone tells a story. Malta and Valletta are not just a destination for us, but a journey through time. It was fascinating to see how so many different cultures, from the Phoenicians to the British Empire, have come together here over the millennia. We had a week to explore this Mediterranean jewel box, and I can say that we didn’t waste a single minute.
Malta’s history began long before the arrival of the knights, in the Stone Age, and the island’s megalithic temples – such as Ggantija or Ħaġar Qim – are older than even the Egyptian pyramids. These mysterious structures bear witness to a developed, peaceful civilization, which was later replaced by more warlike conquerors. After the Phoenicians and then the Carthaginians, the Romans took over, under whom the island became a thriving agricultural center. This period also marks the beginning of Christianity in Malta. In 60 AD, the apostle Paul was shipwrecked on the island and is said to have converted the local population, establishing Malta’s deep religious faith.
In the early Middle Ages, in 870, the Arabs conquered the archipelago, who fundamentally changed the face of the island. They were the ones who introduced the Semitic basis of the Maltese language, and they also introduced cotton cultivation and advanced irrigation systems. Arab rule was ended in 1091 by the Norman conqueror of Sicily, Roger of Hauteville, and Malta returned to the Christian sphere of influence in Europe. In the following centuries, the island was a neglected feudal estate on the outskirts of the Kingdom of Sicily, often changing hands between the Angevins and the Aragonese, until in 1530, Charles V, recognizing its strategic importance, gave the area to the Knights, changing the fate of Malta forever.
It was the Knights of Malta who, under the leadership of Grand Master Jean Parisot de La Valette, stopped the Ottoman conquest in 1565 during the Great Siege. After the victory, the current capital, Valletta, was born, which still proclaims the legacy of the Knights. We also visited all the famous sites, from the Co-Cathedral of St. John, where time almost stopped standing in front of Caravaggio’s dramatic painting, to the Palace of the Grand Master, which is still the political center of the country.
To really get a feel for the city, we hopped on a traditional horse-drawn carriage, a carrozzine, and trotted around Valletta’s honey-colored limestone walls and narrow, hilly streets. From the horse-drawn carriage, buildings like the ornate facade of the Auberge de Castille and the gates of the Upper Barrakka Gardens were even more impressive. As the carriage jolted, we imagined what life must have been like here centuries ago, when armored knights walked these same stones.
In addition to history, we also learned about Malta’s trading past. We learned that the island’s main exports were once the world-famous Maltese cotton, delicious honey, and oranges. Although tourism and modern services now dominate, the harbors – like the vast Grand Harbour – still retain the hustle and bustle that made Malta one of the most important trading hubs in the Mediterranean for centuries.
In addition to cultural adventures, we also indulged in gastronomy. Although we also tried local specialties, one of the absolute highlights of the week was the Japanese restaurant called AKI in the heart of Valletta. The modern, contemporary design and the sophistication of the food were of an impressive standard; the sushi selections and special cocktails were worthy counterpoints to the historical wanderings during the day. Such a perfect fusion is rare, where such progressive, cosmopolitan cuisine awaits you within the patinated city walls.
Malta proved that no matter how small a country is, its history and hospitality are so vast. The city of knights, Valletta, has forever written itself in our hearts with its bastions, the scent of the sea and its unforgettable dinners.
