Il-Birgu’s historical significance far predates that of Valletta, as when the Knights of Malta arrived on the island in 1530, they chose this protected bay as their headquarters, not the barren Sciberras peninsula (where the capital stands today). This city became the true hero of the Great Siege of 1565, from where the knights led the defense, and after the victory it was given the honorific name Vittoriosa (Victorious). We felt this historical weight every day as we stepped out of our accommodation; in the labyrinth of narrow, cool streets, the limestone walls almost radiated the past, while we escaped the afternoon heat by stepping on the centuries-old stones.
The most defining building in the cityscape is the monumental Fort St. Angelo, which sits at the tip of the peninsula. This fortress was the key to the island’s defense, and was also the first residence of the Grand Masters. Walking through the inner part of Birgu, we could admire the Inquisitor’s Palace, which is rarely preserved in its original state in Europe, as well as the original lodgings of the knights, the so-called “Auberges”, which were built before the founding of Valletta. The huge palaces lining the harbor and the baroque towers of the Church of St. Lawrence provided a worthy setting for our evening walks.
In terms of transportation, Birgu proved to be simply unbeatable, and this was one of the most enjoyable parts of our trip. Although Maltese public transportation is notoriously difficult due to frequent traffic jams, we easily avoided this: we reached Valletta in a few minutes with the traditional, colorful Maltese boats (dghajsa) departing from the shore. There is no more uplifting feeling than sitting on the swaying water admiring the monumental bastions of the Grand Harbor and the silhouette of Valletta, while the setting sun illuminates the city. And in the evening, when we returned to the calmer Birgu, we enjoyed the lights of the capital opposite from the terraces of local restaurants, which is arguably one of the most beautiful views on the island.
