We had been planning our trip to Rome for a long time, and finally had the opportunity to spend a longer time here, not just as a passerby, but as a thorough explorer. As we wandered the streets, we were confronted with the fact that Rome is truly the “Eternal City”: thousands of years of history are condensed on every corner, in every marble block and in every basilica.
According to legend, the history of the city began in 753 BC, when Romulus and Remus, who were fed by a she-wolf, founded the settlement on the Palatine Hill. Initially, it was a kingdom, but in 509 BC a republic was proclaimed, during which Rome went from a small city-state to the master of the Mediterranean. After the age of conquests and civil wars, the golden age of the empire, the Pax Romana, arrived with Emperor Augustus, when Rome became the center of the world.
After the rise of Christianity and the division of the Empire, the city’s splendor faded, and it was repeatedly plundered in the storms of migration. In the Middle Ages, the popes became the masters of Rome, and although the city’s population decreased drastically, its spiritual importance remained. During the Renaissance and Baroque, the popes began huge construction projects, which gave the city its present-day monumental appearance. In 1870, Rome became the capital of the united Kingdom of Italy, and in 1929, the Lateran Treaty created the independent Vatican City State, separating church and secular power.
Our first stop was the Colosseum, the pinnacle of engineering of the Flavian dynasty. Not far from here lies the Circus Maximus, which is now a vast grassy area, but was once the largest sports facility in the empire. Over 150,000 spectators cheered on the daring chariot races, where the drivers risked their lives for glory.
The Pantheon is one of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen. It was built around 126 AD under Emperor Hadrian to honor all the gods. Its dome is still the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, with an oculus, an open circular opening in the middle that lets in light (and rain), symbolizing the connection between heaven and earth.
The Capitoline Hill was the center of religious life in ancient times, where the Temple of Jupiter stood. Later, during the Renaissance, Michelangelo designed the magnificent square we see today, Piazza del Campidoglio, which has remained the heart of the city’s administration and one of the most elegant spots in the city ever since.
On the banks of the Tiber rises Castel Sant’Angelo, originally built as the mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian. Later it served as a fortress, and during the time of the popes it also functioned as a refuge and prison. A secret corridor connects it to the Vatican, so in case of danger the heads of the church could flee here from St. Peter’s Basilica.
Finally, within the gates of the Vatican we encountered a concentration of faith and art that is almost incomprehensible. The monumental space of St. Peter’s Basilica provided a fitting conclusion to our discovery of Rome.
It was fantastic to experience that Rome not only lives in the past, but is also a vibrant, modern capital, where the noise of scooters and the buzz of cafes fit perfectly in the shadow of the two thousand year old columns.
